Over the years we've traveled most of Italy. But somehow we've missed the southern regions of Calabria and Puglia.
Taormina, Sicily
We began our journey in Taormina on Sicily’s east coast. It’s popular for its food, shopping, and charm.
Taormina’s history dates back to Greek times and we visited the Teatro Antico which was renovated during Roman times. The theater has an expansive view of the Ionian Sea and Mt. Etna.
Nearby is another small Roman theater, the Odeon, that was used for musical and literary performances in the first century AD.
One afternoon our group took a boat ride to see Taormina from the water and to have a swim in the sea.
We took a day trip to Savoca, a small hillside village where scenes from the Godfather were filmed. Godfather films portray Sicily as the home of the Mafia which is still active there. We met with a journalist who writes for an anti-Mafia newspaper, exposing corruption and naming names.
Lipari, Aeolian Islands
Our next destination was Lipari, the largest of the seven Aeolian Islands off the northeast coast of Sicily.
We took a hydrofoil ferry from Milazzo to the small port of Lipari. It’s known for ancient archaeological sites as well as its picturesque harbor, narrow streets, and vibrant cafés.
The Cathedral of San Bartolomeo sits amid Greek and Roman ruins and adjacent to the archaeological museum. Here is a 9th century book with a Gregorian chant recorded using neumes. The shift from oral transmission to written notation helped preserve Gregorian chants.
The Lipari Archaeological Museum houses a collection of items from shipwrecks, including ceramics and bronze coins from the Greek and Roman periods.
Another hydrofoil ride brought us to the island of Salina, a rocky, arid, and cactus covered landscape.
In the village of Pollara, we visited an agriturismo that grows and markets capers which thrive throughout Southern Italy.
A more sedate boat ride took us to the island of Vulcano that has hot springs and reeks of sulfur from volcanic vents.
Reggio Calabria
Reggio Calabria is located at the tip of Italy's boot, offering views of the Strait of Messina. It’s a modern city with a very long history dating back to 720 BCE.
The city is home to the National Archaeological Museum, which houses the Ricae Bronzes, two famous ancient Greek statues. They were discovered in the Ionian Sea near Riace Marina in 1972 by a diver just 200 yards offshore. The statues are considered masterpieces of Classical Greek sculpture. They depict two warriors and are noted for their good condition, realism and craftsmanship.
The Strait of Messina at its narrowest point is just under 2 miles wide.
Nearby, is the small fishing village of Scilla, famous for its narrow streets, pastel-colored houses, and charming waterfront. Here we visited Oliver Guitars where Sergio Pugliesi showed us some of his beautiful hand-made instruments, and even gave us a short demonstration concert.
An afternoon excursion took us to the ghost town of Pentedattilo. It was founded as a Greek colony in 640 BCE, and was abandoned in the 1960s after a series of natural disasters. We hiked among the ruins to an overlook of the surrounding hills, discovering that there are five remaining residents.
Another mountaintop village nearby is Gerace. It is a well-preserved medieval village with narrow winding streets and ancient buildings. The town is home to a historic Norman castle, which offers panoramic views of the surrounding area. Gerace was once known as the "holy city" due to its numerous churches.
On our long drive to Sila National Park we stopped at a charming seaside town known for its Tartufo Moro, a decadent ball of ice cream filled with molten chocolate.
Pizzo Calabro’s historic center features narrow, cobbled streets, colorful buildings, and a picturesque beach.
Sila
After spending a night in Sila we enjoyed a mountain hike through a foggy beech forest in Pollino National Park. Along the road to Martina Franca we encountered wild mustangs.
Martina Franca
Martina Franca is famous for its charming Baroque buildings and churches. There are picturesque squares that are great spots to relax and enjoy the local ambiance.
The Chiesa Rettoria del Monte Purgatorio is a church with an architectural blend of medieval and Baroque elements. "The Souls of Purgatory", portrays souls in a state of penance, seeking redemption and eventual salvation.
One of our “Learning and Discovery” activities took us to a butchery that makes capocollo which is cured pork. Naturally there were samples cooking for us in the oven.
Polignano a Mare sits on a sixty foot high limestone cliff and has the Roman Borbonico Bridge. The old town is a labyrinth of whitewashed streets, charming churches, and artisanal shops. Just to the South, Monopoli has a photogenic harbor and picturesque streets that reflect its maritime culture and history. The Church of Purgatory, is a macabre site that houses the mummified remains of eight founding members. The wooden entrance door, has intricate carvings of skeletons, symbols of nobility, and various trades.
Alberobello, a charming UNESCO town in Puglia, is known for its trulli, which are traditional Apulian dry stone huts with conical roofs, made without the use of mortar. The town is home to over 1,500 trulli. Walking through these streets feels like stepping into a fairytale village.
Locorotondo means "round place," and it's famous for its circular layout. Characterized by whitewashed houses adorned with colorful flowers, it has a bright and cheerful appearance. Locorotondo is also known for its ceramics and lace work.
Our visit to Itria Bonta cheese farm was fun and informative. We watched cows, pigs, and chickens in their pens. Cheese maker, Giorgio, showed us how mozzarella and burrata are made.
On our way to Trani, we visited Matera, which is known for its unique and ancient cave dwellings called the Sassi di Matera.
These cave homes have been inhabited for thousands of years
Trani
Our arrival in Trani took us to the marina which was filled with colorful boats and yachts.
Trani has a wealth of historical buildings, including medieval structures and The Basilica Beata Maria Vergine Assunta. The cathedral was built to house the relics of Saint Nicholas the Pilgrim, who died in Trani in 1094.
Trani has Jewish history dating back to the Middle Ages, often referred to as a "Jerusalem of the South." The rise of the Spanish Inquisition in the 16th century marked the decline of Jewish presence in Trani.
Olive grower and wine-maker, Conte Spagnoletti Zeuli is located in the Apulia countryside near Trani. We walked through the olive grove and inspected the cold press equipment they use to produce their extra virgin olive oil. They are vintners who produce a red wine called Terranera. Naturally we tasted them both.
On our last day, we visited Castel del Monte which is an octagonal 13th-century citadel that has been looted of its valuable masonry. It’s design combines elements of Romanesque, Gothic, and classical architecture, with Islamic influences in its decorations. Situated on a hill, the castle offers panoramic views of the surrounding countryside.